NESTAREC WEEK No. 3

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Killer – Thurgau 2015

Příběh tohoto vína se začal psát v září minulého roku. Staré keře Műlleru Thurgau každoročně poskytují surovinu pro naše základní víno Běl. Jedna část vinice má však extrémně výsušnou půdu a velmi malý vzrůst. Tady jsme nechali hrozny zrát dalších 10 dnů. Ano, všichni si říkali, že je to šílenství. Odrůda, která rychle ztrácí kyseliny a ještě tak teplý rok. Konkrétní mikrolokalita má ale zajímavou vlastnost. Mošt si vždy zachová dobrou strukturu moštu. To je síla starých vinic. Ne nadarmo se říká, že jedna generace vysází vinici a teprve ta další z ní dělá pořádné víno. Mám rád Műller Thurgau, dobře se pije. Vzpomínám si, jakou Műllerku dělával můj děda ze své malé vinice, která čítala několik stovek keřů. V minulosti zde vládl socialismus a každý mohl pěstovat jen povolené množství vinic, ze kterých si dělal víno pro svou rodinu. Prodávat se nesmělo nic. Byla to zvláštní doba. Odtud se táhne i pověst této odrůdy. Používala se pro masovou výrobu, hlavně pro levná vína. Mám pocit, že se to s ní vleče dodnes. Nečekám od ní vína, která vydrží roky zrát, to od ní nikdo nechce. Je to, ale ideální věc pro nenáročná vína. Nemusíme o víně sáhodlouze přemýšlet, stačí prostě jen pít. Při návštěvě Švýcarska jsem z ní pil tak zábavná přírodní vína. Byla velmi podobná těm, které z ní dělal můj děda a hasil jimi žízeň. Chtěl jsem dělat taky taková. Bylo tam ale ještě něco navíc. Něco co chuť podzvedlo, obohatilo a lákalo k dalšímu napití. Dlouho jsem přemýšlel co. Moc si z dědové sklepní práce nepamatuji, byl jsem přeci jen dítě. Vím, však jaká byla v té době technologie. Ruční mlýnek, který hrozny jen narušil, a spolu s třapinami padaly dolů do kádě. Nelisovalo se hned, nejdřív druhý den, někdy i později.

Killer – Thurgau 2015
The story of this wine began in September last year. Old vines of Muller Thurgau annually provide grapes for our basic wine Běl. However one part of the vineyard has extremely dry out soil and a very small growth. We let the grapes ripen next 10 days in this location. Yes, they all thought this was madness. The variety that is rapidly losing its acidity especially in such a warm year. But this side has an interesting feature. The must has alway good structure. This is the power of old vines. No wonder it is said that one generation plants a vineyard, and the other makes a decent wine.
 I like Muller Thurgau, it has a good drinking ability factor. I remember what Mullerka my grandfather used to make from his small vineyard, which numbered several hundred bushes. During socialism each could grow only permitted amount of vineyards from which you made the wine for his family. We were not allowed to sell anything. It was a special time. The bad reputation of this variety has started in that times. It was used for mass production, especially cheap wine. I feel that it is connected with it today. I do not expect the wines that will last for years to mature, nobody wants that from Muller. On the other hand it is the ideal thing for inexpensive wines. I tried very interesting natural wine from Mullerka grapes during a visit in Switzerland. It was very similar to wine that had made my grandfather and quenching his thirst. I wanted to do well like that. But there was something more I needed to discoved. Something what would boost the flavor, enriched and tempted to drink more. I have long thought what. I do not remember too much of the work my grandfathers did it the cellar, I was just a kid after all. I know, however, what was the technology at that time. Hand grinder, which disrupted the grapes only, and along with of stems falling down into the vat. They did not pressed immediately, firstly the other day, sometimes later. 

 

 

FullSizeRender qV tom mi to došlo! Třapiny a slupka! To je to co dělá víno daleko zábavnějším. Chtěl jsem to však udělat po svém a proto jsem část hroznů, asi 30% podrtil a dal do kádě. Zbytek hroznů normálně vylisoval a mošt hned přidával ke rmutu s třapinami.  Kvasil jsem v otevřené kádi a ani jednou nezamíchal. Vždy, když se tohoto vína napiji, již od stádia kvasícího moštu, přes mladé víno, až do teď, vytane mi na mysli, že toto víno má zvláštní osobitost. Nikdy jsem nevěděl, jak se zachová, vždycky mě překvapilo. Několikrát již jsem myslel, že je víno stabilní a nachystané pro láhev. Mýlil jsem se, víno mělo svou hlavu a znovu a znovu začalo pracovat.  Není to žádný měkký barbie Műller, je to prostě killer. Killer-Thurgau 2015.  Jsem rád, že jsem našel podobu vína, která mi vyhovuje a je tak zábavná. Pijme více zábavných vín. Osvobozuje to.

 

Then it hit me!  The stems and skins! That’s what makes the wine far more entertaining. But I wanted to do it my own way and that’s why I portion of grapes, about 30% crushed and put into vats. I pressed the rest of the grapes juice normally and immediately added to the vat to mash of stem. I fermented in an open vat and never once did not stir it. Whenever sips of wine, from the stage of fermenting must, over the young wine, until now, pops to my mind that this wine has a special personality. I never knew how to keep always surprised me. I thought that wine is stable and ready for the bottle for several times already.But I was wrong, the wine had its own head and started to „work“ again and again. It’s not soft Műller barbie, it’s just a killer. Killer-Thurgau 2015. I am glad that I found the form of wine, that suits me and it is so much fun. Lets dring more fun wine. It liberates!
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Víno stále čeká na láhev, půjde příští týden pod korunku. Jsem zvědavý, jak se zachová. Ještě chvíli a budeme sklízet hrozny pro Killer-Thurgau 2016. Baví mě přemýšlet jaký asi bude.
Wine still waiting for the bottles, it will go under the crown cup next week. I’m curious how it will behave. Just few days and we will began to pick grapes for Killer-Thurgau 2016. I like to think about what it will be like.
MN
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